Roger Vivier’s new collection captures a femininity that is sharp, assured and unmistakably Parisian.
In its autumn-winter repertoire, CHOC: Architecture de la Séduction, the French maison depicts sensuality as an expression of identity. It is a state that is deliberate, not fragile or decorative, boldly claimed by the Roger Vivier woman.
Creative Director Gherardo Felloni places the Talon Choc at the heart of this season’s line-up. This is the radical heel originally conceived by Roger Vivier in 1959. Concave, sculptural and architectural, it shocked clients at the time and still baffles the mind with its curved line. Its paradox lies in its visual instability: the inward bend creates the illusion of imbalance. And yet, structurally, it offers remarkable support.
This tension between perception and reality mirrors contemporary femininity itself: a woman who may appear delicate, yet whose foundation is unwavering. The heel transcends its function to become a declaration of identity, expressing a uniquely Parisian balance between allure and autonomy.
This contrarian narrative is noticeable throughout the collection. A minimal black nappa ankle boot expresses authority through purity of line. Pumps adorned with seemingly rigid strass-encrusted metal bows reinterpret a traditionally soft emblem of femininity into something protective. A lower Choc heel emerges through new embroidered and buckled interpretations of cuissardes; over-the-knee boots that symbolise independence, evoking the figure of the modern Amazon – sensual yet powerful.
The Rose Vivier line comes in exceptional leather variations and introduces a new bag, highlighting the skill of the ateliers. Each leather petal is cut, shaped and applied by hand, one by one. The Belle Vivier, one of the maison’s most enduring icons, is further explored through new expressions of the slingback in woven leather and suede. Also interpreted in new materials, the Belle Vivier clutch echoes the architectural precision of its buckle, crafted with meticulous attention to proportion and finish.
Gilets emerge in varied interpretations this season. An embroidered line inspired by the highly decorated design of the 1950s, which reimagines great classics with braided passementerie and crystal-beaded embellishments; and a tuxedo gilet defined by sleek, impeccably cut lines, fastened with metal rose buttons covered in crystal pavé.
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